Key to the englishbay.com Walking Tour
	Photo moment	Click for more info	Historical building	Click for map

We'll start our stroll from one of the most 'preservation-conscious' parts of the West End, Barclay Heritage Square, as it represents some of the earliest days of Vancouver's existence. If you are starting our tour from here, consult the map for the best way of getting here. There is a reasonable amount of parking around (beware the 'Permit Only' areas), with some meters over on Denman or Robson Streets. This walk can take a leisurely couple of hours or the better part of your afternoon, depending on how many coffee breaks you take or how engrossed you become with the delightful scenery. Sometimes the best way to learn about the area is just to plant yourself on a seat at a café or on the beach, and watch the world go by!
Stage 1 Corner of Broughton & Barclay to Nicola at Comox see walking tour map
	Barclay Heritage Square Bounded by Haro, Broughton, Barclay and Nicola streets, this unique parksite was developed by the Vancouver Board of Parks and Recreation. Included are nine historic houses dating from 1890 to 1908, retained in their original settings and even come with period landscaping and pleasant gardens. In keeping with this "old West End" theme, the Haro and Broughton streetscapes been kept consistent as well, with a further six heritage houses rehabilitated for family accommodation. On Barclay Street though, a true feeling of the original neighbourhood character and scale is maintained, flagshipped by 'Barclay Manor' which is now looked after by the West End Community Centre as a venue for senior citizens' events. On either side there is 'The Roedde House Museum,' the City of Vancouver's first "house" museum, and the 'Weeks House,' occupied by 'Friends For Life,' an organisation that provides support for individuals with life-threatening illnesses.
Roedde House Museum The Roedde House Museum is the uppermost of the three houses featured on Barclay Street. The house was built in 1893 for Gustav Roedde, Vancouver's first bookbinder. For thirty years, Roedde and his family lived in the house during a period of astonishing development which saw the West End grow from a pioneer settlement to an established residential neighbourhood. The design of Roedde House is attributed to the early B.C. architect, Francis M. Rattenbury, notable for such prestigious creations as the Parliament Buildings and Empress Hotel in Victoria, and for Vancouver's Courthouse, which is now the Art Gallery. TRIVIA! Roedde House architect, Francis M. Rattenbury, is also infamous for his murder in 1935 by his wife and her teenaged lover! His wife committed suicide soon after and the young man did a little prison time. The house is now owned by the City of Vancouver and is operated by the non-profit 'Roedde House Preservation Society,' who have restored and authentically furnished the house with all the accoutrements of middle class life in the 1890s. (Roedde House is open for public viewing with guided tours and afternoon tea recreating the ambience of the old West End. For more information please call 684-7040.) Barclay Manor Next door is Barclay Manor, home to the 'West End Seniors Network ' and the 'Parks and Recreation Board,' which was originally built in 1905 for Gastown businessman Francis Baynes. In 1909, an addition of three storeys to the rear of the house was completed at a cost of $10,000 which quickly was followed by its sale by Baynes. From then until 1919, it was "Miss Clermont's West End Hospital". TRIVIA! It has been said that Mrs. Roedde crossed the lawns to this hospital to have her babies. Around 1926, the building became known as 'Barclay Manor,' a boarding house which served as a place for officers from naval ships to use when in port, subsequently housing thousands of young individuals over the years. Rent included 2 meals a day and maid service from $23 a week. In 1970, the City of Vancouver bought it, and in 1988 the three storey addition was demolished, the rear of the house was reconstructed to an Edwardian design and the remainder fully restored to its pre-1909 condition. TRIVIA! Barclay Square and the houses are often locations for movie and television productions. Departing this particularly interesting part of the West End, we take a brief jaunt to the corner of Barclay and Nicola, make a left turn and cross to the other side of Nicola. There's a few interesting old shops here, especially the 'Barclay Grocery' on the corner with its cool old neon sign. This place looks like it hasn't seen much of that Barclay Square restoration money...
Stage 2 Corner of Nicola & Nelson to Denman at Haro see walking tour map
	Firehall No.6 Continue up Nicola to Nelson Street. Across us on the left is a lovely example of a well-kept, perhaps 1930's apartment block, one of a fair number of which you'll find in this area. Cross to the opposite side of Nelson, and straight ahead and to our right is 'Firehall No.6.' This beautifully restored brick and stone building was built in 1907 to serve the growing West End community. Designed by Vancouver architect Arthur J. Bird, the firehall claims to be the first in North America built to accommodate motor vehicles. An addition was completed in 1927 and then the whole place was restored in 1988.
Let's keep going up Nicola past the rough-around-the-edges houses on the right...here's one that looks like an artist's studio and another has a chap trying to sell us his bicycle and kitchen table from his balcony. The trees along here are quite unusual, as are many trees in the West End. In fact, most were imported at one time or another - though nobody seems to know exactly when - and you'll find many different series from one street to the next. Turn right when we get to Comox Street, and perhaps cross to the left side of the street as it provides better views of some of the houses on the right side. Right away there are two early century ones, brightly coloured and in the process of being restored. Again we see a change of tree types here on Comox, with a predominance of plum-coloured leaves and branches stretching across the road. Kids are scampering about, friends are gathering at the youth centre and it certainly has a family-living kind of atmosphere about this part of the street. As we push past Bidwell on our way down to Denman, still strolling along Comox, we see the result of the 60's building boom in the 'walk-up' apartments on the right. Continue under the canopy of lush foliage at the bottom of the street and make a right turn on Denman Street.
Denman Street Denman Street is a very popular street for both locals and tourists, night and day and all year-round. It is a quaint shopping and social street dating back to the 1940's (in a state similar to now - Denman has been a business strip since before the 20's) offering a mixture of restaurants (sushi, West Coast, pizza and juice bars), dozens of cafes (coffee, bagels & desserts) and services (dry cleaning, shoe repair, fresh fruit and veggies, bakery, flowers) plus cinema and sports equipment rental. Denman Street derived its named from Admiral Joseph Denman, commander-in-chief of the British Navy's Pacific Station (1864-66). Admiral Denman was the hero of the bloodiest naval scene ever fought on the coast of B.C., with a rebellious Vancouver Island tribe suffering a bombardment of 9 villages and 64 canoes lost. Proceed up Denman's right side, crossing side-streets Nelson and Barclay on the way, noting the yellow Art Deco-styled building on the left corner of Barclay and Denman. This was formerly the home of the 'Starlight Theatre', a cinema devoted to showing 'art' movies, originally built in 1938. Renovated for its 60th anniversary, the original building was home to a mural of famous actors and was subject to some controversy when the mural was to be removed. Still on Denman's right side heading north, we see King George High School on the right and then the West End Community Centre and Library just beyond. King George High School The second smallest of Vancouver's Secondary schools with 515 students, King George boasts a strong ethnic mix where any of 36 different languages can be heard in its hallways. West End Community Centre The Community Centre is jointly operated by the West End Community Centre Association and the Vancouver Board of Parks and Recreation to provide leisure activities and services sensitive to the needs of this diverse community. "Something for everyone" comes in the form of a wide range of social, educational, recreational, creative, cultural and physical activities. Joe Fortes Library Joe Fortes Library, one of the Vancouver Public Libraries, is named after the popular English Bay lifeguard. Joe was an important part of life here in the early part of the century, and his stories can be found in their own section.
Time for a coffee break!
Stage 3 Corner of Denman & Haro to Lost Lagoon see walking tour map
Bounding the backside of the library is HaroStreet. If we walk across Denman Street to our left when we get to Haro, we begin our journey through the most tranquil corner of the West End on our way to Stanley Park. Heading west past Vina Vietnamese Restaurant, we slip into the cool shade of the canopy of trees and away from the bustle of Denman. Immediately you can see the appeal to living in the area: you get the convenience and excitement of living near the middle of the city while nearly having the quiet and quaint setting of a peaceful suburb.  About 200 metres from Denman Street, on the right side, we see another nice example of brickwork at 'The Arlington,' a low-rise apartment building from the first half of the century. Further up this well-groomed street we find the 'Buchan Hotel' nestled next to Guilford Square. This area also shows off how old and new reside side-by-side in the jumble of architecture that makes up the West End. We'll just continue to the corner of Chilco and Haro, where we will get a small glimpse of Lost Lagoon in Stanley Park - don't worry, we'll be there in a second! We're first going to hang a left onto Chilco, pass by 'The Chatalaine' on our right (more fine bricks) and then take the next right onto Barclay again. Note the interesting droopy trees along Chilco past Barclay. This portion of Barclay is just a skip and a jump to Stanley Park and as we near the end of the street, we are confronted by probably the newest and possibly the 'funkiest' tower in the West End on our left at 2088. Very chic!
Stanley Park Here we are at Lagoon Drive. Crossing at the crosswalk, it's a right and then an immediate left (where the 'Pooh Corner Daycare' sign is) to enter the park trail. We have created a broader history of Stanley Park complete with detailed maps of walking and biking trails, the seawall and all the park's amenities should you wish to explore further. About 50 meters in, we have the option to go one of two routes. One route takes us straight down the path before us and allows to peek in at the golf course and check out heaps of squirrels. The other option takes us down to the lagoon to observe the birds and wildlife along with great views across the lagoon. Unless you're in a hurry or don't like water, I'd say the choice is clear!
RIGHT:  take the path to your right, down the slight decline and then the immediate left and you'll see the lagoon. There's a bit of wildlife info near the water's edge where we are going to bear left and walk with the water to our right side. The Lagoon got its name from native Indian poet Pauline Johnson, as, for many years, the lagoon was simply a shallow outlet from the ocean and the water would disappear at low tide. A man-made blockage enclosed the lagoon for good and now it is a nature reserve where you'll see multitudes of geese, ducks, the odd swan, herons and various other fowl residing. Note also the fountain across the way, built during the Depression oddly enough. As we start our lagoonside stroll it is likely that you will encounter a number of raccoons - now so accustomed to being around people and being fed by them, they will march confidently up to your feet even if you just glance in their direction. Unless you taunt them, they are perfectly harmless and will continue on their cute way if you ignore them. *Try not to walk too late at night near the lagoon as there are coyotes living in the park and this area is not well lit.* Follow the path along until it hits the concrete bridge over the stream - this is also where our trail converges with the 'straight-ahead' trail. STRAIGHT AHEAD: follow the paved path down under the trees. You can nip into the little side-trails over to the low timber fencing and check out the golfers. If you've never seen squirrels before, you may think that Vancouver has an epidemic of these tiny furry things, as zillions of them seem to roost around here. About halfway along this trail on your left you will come across a beautiful (though slightly hidden) flower garden which is really quite amazing and unexpected. Head over the bridge and then bear left noting the weeping trees and the Japanese-style setting around the stream. About 100 metres up this path to the left is a lovely wooden bridge. This little field is a photographer's dream during the winter when the fog starts to drift in on a regular basis, and it takes on a surreal, painterly quality.
Stage 4 Second Beach to Beach at Guilford see walking tour map
Second Beach Stones in English Bay on loan from Coplu Art Studio Straight ahead of us is the ocean - you are probably getting pleasant whiffs of the salt-water already! Cross Stanley Park Drive and you'll see the Second Beach concession on the right and the pool just beyond. This busy swimming pool is a recent addition to the Park, opened in 1995 to replace the last of Vancouver's 'draw and fill' pools (a pool that is filled at high tide and replaced weekly), previously at this same location. Perhaps a quick swim is in order at this point if it's a roasty day...otherwise, bear left at the beach and continue on the seawall path with the beach on your right. Stay on the lower path nearer the water and take a nice stroll around part of Stanley Park's perimeter. As you walk, follow the horizon with your eyes to the right and you'll see the North Shore mountains; in between are the usual myriad of freighters waiting for a space in Vancouver's bustling port; straight ahead we can see the University of B.C. at the point plus the expansive stretches of the south shore beaches. Soon you should be able to see English Bay beach ahead on the path in the distance. Our lazy seawall saunter will take us to a point near the Bay beach before the path opens out, where, on the left will be a paved path cutting up through the bushes (often there are some artists selling paintings on the rocks at the right). Take this path to the upper trail, bearing right at the top and over to the bust of an honourable Vancouver politician.
Bust of David Oppenheimer At the entrance to Stanley Park at Beach Avenue there is a bust of David Oppenheimer who was the second mayor of Vancouver (1888-1891). Oppenheimer is considered by many to have been one of Vancouver's finest mayors. It is not hard to see why when you hear of his achievements and Vancouver's advancements during his time in office. During his relatively short reign, he established the first transportation system with the introduction of streetcars in 1890 initiated street paving established the Parks Board and he officially opened Stanley Park. opened Cambie Street Bridge and the first Granville Bridge developed a lighting company (which is now B.C. Hydro) plus Vancouver's first civic water supply and schools were built On top of it all, David Oppenheimer served as mayor without pay and donated his own land for schools and parks...what a guy!
Let's move on and continue up this divided rollerblade/bike path (it's OK to walk here too)... take the path across Beach Avenue just ahead and follow it between the building on the right and the bushes on the left - don't worry, we'll get back to the beach shortly! The first street you'll reach is Pendrell. Keep on the path - you'll notice the well-known Stanley Park tennis courts just beyond on the left. Walk down past the alleyway on your right until you get to the next cul-de-sac which is Comox Street. Turn right onto Comox - you'll immediately see, or rather 'hear' why this is a popular area of the West End to live in. The peace and quiet combined with easy access to the Park explain the lack of vacancies generally available in the surrounding units. We'll stay on Comox as we drift across Chilco. The second building on the right of this block, at number 1968, is the beautiful 'English Bay Inn,' a well-groomed bed and breakfast built in 1910. This craftsman-style bungalow is the only example of such a style in the West End and is a fine feature of this street. Continue to Guilford and turn right. Take this street all the way down, across Pendrell again, and approach Beach Ave. As we near, the historic Sylvia Hotel, at 1154 Guilford, looms up in all its glory on the left.
Stage 5 Sylvia Hotel to English Bay beach see walking tour map
	The Sylvia Hotel During the summer months, its façade is nearly impossible to see with all that ivy crawling on it. Covered with Virginia creeper, this Vancouver landmark was once the tallest building in West End, easily seen from miles away. It was built in 1912, and was originally an apartment building, considered by many as Vancouver's grandest. When the depression hit, the apartments were turned into hotel rooms, often accommodating merchant seamen. The hotel now has a large, modern extension, but the original building is definitely worth a visit, especially the English-pub styled lounge which has a great view overlooking the beach and Bay. After all these years, the hotel still draws considerable attention and retains its rather prime location.
TRIVIA! In July 1954 Vancouver's first cocktail bar was opened in the Sylvia Hotel. TRIVIA! Across Guilford Street is 'Eugenia Place;' if you look up, you'll see a tree on the balcony of the top floor. It has been said that this symbolises the original height of the West End forest! From the Hotel, we cross Beach Avenue and return to the seawall path adjacent to the beach itself, heading left and walking towards the bathhouse.
English Bay Beach English Bay Beach is one of Vancouver's most popular beaches with both tourists and Vancouverites. In summer, it is crowded with people swimming in the sea and bathing in the sun, kids playing on the waterslide, street performers entertaining and people filling the seawall just strolling, cycling or skating. Give yourself a few minutes to take it all in. TRIVIA! The triangle of land between Morton and Beach Avenue used to house the "Imperial Roller Rink," where you could rollerskate or watch musical-comedies for as little as ten cents, until it burned down in the 1920's. The beach has always been popular, especially after sand was added in 1898, and people began to build themselves cottages where they would spend their summers. It's hard to imagine that in order to reach the beach in the 1890's, one had to follow trails through the bushes and then, when you arrived, the beach was divided in two by a large rock, men on one side and women on the other! In the early 1900's, a wooden bathhouse was built (people no longer had to change behind the bushes) and a walking pier with a glassed-in dancehall called "The Prom" were added. The current bathhouse was constructed in 1931 and seven years later, the pier and dancehall were both torn down. Joe Fortes A significant figure in the history of this beach is 'old black Joe,' a Barbados-born man that made English Bay his home in the 1890's and made a considerable impact on the lives of those who knew him. We have dedicated a section to Joe where you can find out a bit more about this local hero. Fireworks If you are fortunate enough to be visiting Vancouver in late July/early August, you probably have already heard the buzz about the town. Every year, English Bay hosts an international fireworks competition entitled the 'Symphony of Fire', with a series of spectacular fireworks displays blasting from a barge in the bay. More than 350,000 spectators on each of the 4 nights of the 1997 series gathered together on the beach and other vantage points around Vancouver to watch the 'biggest barge-based fireworks display in the world.' TRIVIA! Every New Years Day, several hundred people take the plunge into the icy waters of English Bay for the annual Polar Bear swim, a tradition established in 1920 when Peter Pantages, a man who swam in English Bay three times a day everyday regardless of the conditions, formed the Polar Bear Club. Sundial At the beach entrance at the end of Denman Street, you can see a sundial made of bronze and granite (pictured at right). It was placed here in 1967 in memory of the first investors of the West End - Morton, Brighouse and Hailstone.   Beyond this area of the beach we will walk a few hundred meters to the rock sculpture in the distance - Inuit inukshuk.
Stage 6 Rock sculpture to Alexandra Park see walking tour map
Inuit inukshuk This giant with the welcoming outstretched arms is a well-known symbol in northern Canada for just that: hospitality and friendship. Also traditionally used as a landmark and navigation aid, this stone sculpture was originally commissioned by the government of the Northwest Territories for its pavillion at Vancouver Expo in 1986. It was subsequently donated to the City and placed in its current location. If you are lucky, you may catch some of the local people building smaller freestanding stone and wood sculptures which are amazing studies in seemingly defying gravity... Turn back towards the hillside and you'll see a path heading straight up to the road. Follow it up and bear left at the top, proceeding to cross at the first crosswalk to your right (Beach Avenue). Head over to the park on your left and continue to follow the upper path parallel with Beach Avenue.
Alexandra Park Here at the foot of Bidwell Street is Alexandra Park. This small park (only 1.33 acres) was named in honour of the reigning Queen at the time the park was acquired. In the middle of the park is Haywood Bandstand, one of only a few remaining Edwardian bandstand's in Vancouver. Every Sunday afternoon during summer, a series of concerts entitled 'Music in the Park' take place. About halfway along the path you'll come to Joe's drinking fountain.
Joe Fortes Drinking Fountain Alexandra Park is also home to a decorative fountain which was placed here in June 1927 by the citizens of Vancouver to commemorate Joe Fortes. Joe was English Bay's self-appointed, unpaid lifeguard and later Vancouver's first official lifeguard. Built at a height so that children can use it, the fountain's inscription says, "Little Children Loved Him". If you didn't have a look before, please read Joe's story. Cut back up through the park past the bandstand, and cross Burnaby Street at Bidwell. Continue to follow Bidwell past the stylish "Balthazar Hideaway" restaurant on your left. Davie Street is the next one you come to, so cross the road and turn right up the hill.
Stage 7 Corner of Davie & Bidwell to Barclay Square see walking tour map
Davie Street The other of English Bay's two major thoroughfares, Davie is home to a lifestyle that is considerably different than Denman's. Named after the Premier of B.C. in 1887, the Honourable A.E.B. Davie was Vancouver's first openly gay politician. A group of friends of Davie's formed the seed of what is now Canada's largest gay community. This colourful area changes numerous times as it gets further up into the West End and then into Yaletown, and definitely shows no hint of its beginnings as a "25-foot wide muddy ditch." About 2 blocks up on your left is what is currently 'Romano's Macaroni Grill.' This stunning last remaining example of the original West End mansions has been perfectly preserved throughout the decades.
Gabriola Mansion The corner of Nicola Street is home to what was once 'Gabriola', "probably the most lavish private home ever constructed in B.C." It was built in 1900 for Benjamin Tingley Rogers. Rogers, a sugar refiner from New York City, came to Vancouver at age 24 and in 1892 opened the 'B.C Sugar Refinery,' quickly becoming one of Vancouver's most important businessmen, known by all as the 'Sugar King'.
The mansion for the Rogers family was designed by Samuel Maclure, a well known residential architect at the time and was built from stone brought from Gabriola Island - hence its original name. The mansion was sold in 1918 after Benjamin died and his widow moved into Shannon, a new mansion in Shaughnessy, the now fashionable area for the rich. Gabriola was then converted into apartments with over 50 suites, eventually turning into a series of restaurants, as it stands today. The final leg of our historic journey finds us following Nicola Street, off of Davie and adjacent to 'Gabriola,' left and through the small park. We open out onto Pendrell running west and east. To our left is a lovely old apartment building and to our right about a block up is 'Pendrell Suites'... TRIVIA! At 1419 Pendrell Street, you will find a 1910 brick heritage building which was beautifully refurbished to its original state in 1966. It has become the upscale guest house, 'Pendrell Suites,' where it typically houses movie companies either filming in the area or in the house itself. Most recently it has been home to the apartment of the character 'Dana Scully,' FBI agent on the TV series, the 'X-Files'. With the amount of filming taking place around the West End, you may be lucky and catch a star or two strutting their stuff... If we follow Nicola straight before us, it will return us to our starting point, 3 blocks ahead. Acknowledgements: "Roedde House Preservation Society" - some info supplied by brochure "The First 100 Years - An Illustrated Celebration"; Richard Steele; The Vancouver Board of Parks and Recreation, 1988. "The Vancouver Book"; Charles H. Davis; Evergreen Press, 1976. "West End Walking Guide"; Rosemary Neering; Whitecap Books, 1994. "Where Vancouver"; Louise Phillips; Peggie Terry, periodical - June 1997.